In all Muslim countries, it’s easier for a homosexual couple than a heterosexual couple to live their sexuality to the full, since two men can live together, travel together and even share a hotel room. There’s no law against it. An unmarried heterosexual couple, on the other hand, will have far more problems living out their intimacy.
In Morocco Mawlid al-nabawi (the birth of the prophet) is confused with sex affairs
Men marry men in Morocco. And it’s at the annual “moussem” of Sidi Ali Ben Hamdouche that they choose to celebrate their nuptials, without hiding. The Reporter witnessed the pomp and ceremony of one of these marriages… Report.
WE are in Sidi Ali (rural commune of Maghrassiyine), 30 km from Meknes. Perched on a hill, this small village is home to the annual “moussem” (a kind of festival) of Sidi Ali Ben Hamdouche. Like Cheikh El Kamel El Hadi Benaïssa’s other “moussem”, which takes place at the same time, the festivities begin seven days after “aïd al mawlid” (the mouloud festival celebrating the Prophet’s birthday). They are celebrated in a variety of ways by thousands of visitors who flock from all corners of the Kingdom and even from abroad.
After midnight, the mausoleum of the marabout Sidi Ali Ben Hamdouche is still teeming with people. Some still have their “hadra” (trance), while others have their own festivities.
One of these festivals is quite special. This is the one we chose to invite ourselves to, not without difficulty.
To the sound of youyous, a few men with graceful gestures (more graceful than those of many of the women we know) and the frenzied music of a group of delirious “Hmadcha”, a couple entered the door of a large hall adjoining the mausoleum. Two silhouettes, holding hands, enter at a leisurely pace. They are surrounded by enthusiastic attendants. At the same time, “sla ou slam àla Rassoul Allah” (prayers and salutations be upon the Prophet, a formula sung at all weddings) burst from everywhere. Other, more strident, youyous are launched.
The two silhouettes have all the appearance of a husband and wife getting married, except that we discover that they are two men. The first, wearing a white djellaba, smiles at the guests. The second, with his hands full of henna, is wearing a caftan. He strolls along, spreading smiles that, however measured, force him to redo his make-up several times. Neggafate” (make-up artists and dressers…) are on hand to ensure that the groom and his bridegroom are the stars of their wedding night. The bride and groom are seated in armchairs in the middle of the well-guarded room.
Henchmen keep a watchful eye in various parts of the room. They’re there in case any undesirables interfere. These bodyguards get annoyed every time a camera flashes or a stranger tries to enter the room. We had to use a thousand subterfuges to get in, and even more to be able to take, on the sly, the photos that illustrate this report.
The saroual ritual
Later that festive night, the couple slipped away, escorted by the “neggafates”. But the music and singing do not cease. An hour later, a closed circle of guests celebrate, in secret, the release of the saroual, which is placed on a silver platter.
At this point, the youyous mingle with a special refrain that explains the situation: “Eddah eddah wallah ima khellah” (he took her as his husband…). This ritual is the same as that traditionally performed for a heterosexual couple who have just consummated their marriage. After the first intercourse, the bride’s blood-stained pants are exposed on the tray (this is the saroual). This shows that the bride has just lost her virginity. The husband is congratulated for having chosen the right wife. This seems to be the expression of all those (rarer) who offer a “hdia” (gift) to congratulate the bride and groom as they dance the night away. Here, of course, the groom has no virginity to lose, but the saroual ritual is still respected.
Incredible as it may seem, yes, these are two men marrying each other. And they’re happy to do it. And it’s happening in Meknes, Morocco, in front of guests who are, for the most part, ecstatic.
And the gay couple aren’t the only ones celebrating their union. Another gay couple enters the stage a little later. They, too, will be greeted with music, singing, youyous and lots of dancing.
We’ve learned that over the last five years, this is where gay couples prefer to celebrate their weddings. Often in the presence not only of their friends, but also of their relatives.
Homosexuals, Sidi Ali and bad luck
Like nubile girls who can’t get married, homosexuals (in the role of women) come to Sidi Ali to ward off their spells. They too leave their panties in a corner near the marabout. This is a well-known superstition which, according to popular belief, could help attract suitors.
Even those who don’t go so far as to leave their underwear behind, come and implore the saint for seven days and nights to break “laàkes” (bad luck). Even bound homosexuals do so to ask for peace and happiness in their relationship. Homosexuals are very keen on “hadra” (trance) with the “Hmadcha”. This is how they intend to liberate themselves. They are also faithful followers of the “Aïcha Soudania” ritual, which consists of bathing at night in a pond and throwing the underwear on a fig tree, as young girls do to free themselves from “tabâa”, a kind of jinx that pursues you (and is generally the result of a bad spell). This belief is widespread among the working classes.
Gay pride in Sidi Ali
For the duration of the moussem, homosexual couples stroll around holding hands. Some of them are recognizable by their waddling when they walk and their exaggeratedly feminine gestures. Others are conspicuous for their tight-fitting clothes, their foundation or even their perfume, which you can smell from afar. Still others, tattooed with henna and wearing jewels, do their utmost not to go unnoticed.
Here, the taboo of homosexual relations in Morocco is broken. As one observer puts it: “For the duration of a moussem, Sidi Ali becomes a corridor of cultural exceptionalism in Morocco. Homosexuals arrive in Sidi Ali in small groups.
Sometimes, a room rented from the villagers is enough to accommodate a whole smala. Some come from Casablanca or Rabat. Others arrive from Tétouan, Fès, Tangier or Mekhnès. They all live together, partying and more, without the slightest problem. Between them, they form a veritable brotherhood.
magnifique ! mariages entre…
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